I spent Christmas 2024 in Puerto Morelos, a small town tucked between Cancún and Playa del Carmen. It was my second stay, the first being a couple of years earlier when I enjoyed a few weeks there. I was curious to see how it had changed and hoped it would be a quieter, less busy alternative to Playa for the holidays. I arrived a couple of days before Christmas and left a couple of days before New Year’s.
A Little About El Puerto
There are two parts of Puerto Morelos: the inland area, known as “la colonia,” and the beachfront area (“el puerto”). So far, I’ve only spent time in the beachside part of town.
One interesting tidbit I learned from a Cozumel yacht operator I sat next to on the bus to Mérida was that, 30 years ago, before the highway existed, people rode boats between Puerto Morelos and Progreso to reach Mérida.
Around the main plaza in the port area, you’ll find several restaurants, cafés, souvenir shops, and tour operators. The Super Chedraui is located a block south of the plaza. I’d recommend staying somewhere north of the plaza, as that’s where the best beach action and access are. While I’ve occasionally enjoyed the beach to the south, there’s not much there, and you have to access it by the plaza and walk down.
Getting To Puerto Morelos from Playa del Carmen
I took a taxi from Playa del Carmen to Puerto Morelos for 750 pesos (~$35 USD). Feeling lazy and with my birthday the next day, I decided to splurge.
A more budget-friendly option, which I used during my first visit, is to take a taxi to the bus station, hop on an ADO bus to Puerto Morelos, and then catch a taxi to the beach. If you try to book the bus trip online, you won’t find Puerto Morelos listed as a destination, but you can still buy a ticket at the station. The bus drops you off on the side of the highway, and there’s a taxi stand just around the corner where you can grab a ride to the beach town.
Weather
The weather this time was cooler and rainier than during my first stay in November 2022. Unfortunately, we had three solid days of rain, including Christmas Day, which dampened the experience a bit.
Changes Since My First Visit
I arrived a few days before Christmas and was surprised that not much had changed in the two years since my last visit. I had expected more growth, as most of the Riviera Maya is rapidly developing. However, I did notice a few larger condo developments starting to go up.
There were also some changes that felt like a step back. The playground in the plaza is mostly gone now—it was the only place I had found to do pull-ups without going to la colonia. A couple of good restaurants on the south side of the plaza had been converted into souvenir shops. Additionally, the lavandería I had used before is now self-service with limited hours.
One positive change was that a portion of Javier Rojo Gomez, where many restaurants are located, is now closed to cars at night. It’s a lovely spot to stroll and grab a bite to eat.
The Beaches Were Busy
I don’t know why I expected otherwise, but the beaches were packed throughout my stay. Finding a spot, especially at beach clubs like Don Ernesto’s or Único, was a challenge most days.
The condition of the beach was also a bit disappointing. Scraped sand and lingering seaweed made it less pristine than I’d hoped. I initially thought this was primarily a summer issue due to high sargassum levels, as it was during my first scouting visit, but it might be a year-round concern. Over the week, there were times when the beach had been cleaned up a bit, so it might also have been a function of how busy it was.
That said, I still enjoyed it. Early mornings, in particular, were a peaceful time to be out on the sand. One morning stood out—calm seas, cool, crystal-clear water, and a serene float that reminded me why I was there.
Highlights
- Don Ernesto’s Beach Club. A fond memory from my last visit, Don Ernesto’s did not disappoint this time either. I was lucky to snag a chair one afternoon despite the crowds. Between the excellent location, tasty food, and friendly service, it remains my favorite beach club in Puerto Morelos.
- Local Coffee + Shop. This became my go-to coffee spot. I got hooked on their café de olla, and the banana bread and carrot cake were delicious.
- Christmas Dinner at Peninsula. A standout experience this trip was a traditional navideña (Christmas) dinner at Peninsula. It was held upstairs in a beautifully decorated space with music—thoroughly enjoyable.
- El Patio Heladeria. This Argentinian-style gelato spot was a happy find. The gelato was fantastic, and the service was exceptionally friendly.
Final Thoughts
Puerto Morelos has a lot to offer. Outside the holiday season, it can be relatively tranquil, and parts of the beaches are beautiful. The town has a decent supermarket and some great coffee and food options.
That said, it might still be a bit too small for me without a car. The limited options for working out and laundry services make extended stays less appealing. I miss the trees and shade you can find in parts of Playa or Tulum, and the lack of inexpensive transportation options in and out of town is inconvenient. For the holidays, it didn’t quite have the quieter, laid-back vibe I was hoping for. I like it here a lot, but think I’ll wait a while before visiting again.